501 réponses à ce sujet

[Legendary Chop Chop]

Those look really nice. I love the matte borders going with the real color of the pictures. It really makes those stand out. Those are underrated as lithos, IMO. I especially like the coloring of the Prototype SR2.

[Ghost GBR]

Yeah the grey, black and white contrasts well!! I like!

[ArtofBrad]

I like the blue on prototype SR2, I've actually got mine done very similarly. The grey on purgatory looks really good too.  The dead reaper looks good with that mat color choice as well, now I am considering picking it up.

The mat choice really makes the artwork stand out.

I just hope that they start making some of the new ME3 lithos a little brighter in color, it seems like with the black borders the art itself is really dark as well. Makes it hard to choose mats that aren't black.

Modifié par ArtofBrad, 19 avril 2012 - 12:44 .

[kp-]

Thanks all! I worked with an awesome framer at Michaels. I knew walking in I wanted a smaller black frame from looking at the many litho's in this thread. I also did not want much white showing so I had the matting come right under each title and signature etc.

If anyone wants a closer pic of an litho let me know... just rushed to get something posted here. I've got many more litho's that are sitting in the shipping box but doing these 4 were kinda pricey!!! But its my first framed art so its worth it!

[archive-th]

 Hey all, user: rasmusvn has wrote up a nifty little 'guide to framing' for all those who are new to it, or would like some inside info on what to get. You can find the guid in the orignal post, first page.

Thanks again rasmusvn.

Modifié par archive-th, 23 avril 2012 - 02:14 .

[Dustwulf]

Anyone here gotten mats from http://www.hollywoodposterframes.com?

How exactly did you measure it out and decide on a color?

Debating whether or not to mat my TIM, prototype SR2 and Earth Alliance.

Also have the Adam Sidwell print that I'm planning to mat something like this: http://vnl.li/r/lithos04.jpg

[TheKingBoar]

Dustwulf wrote...

Anyone here gotten mats from http://www.hollywoodposterframes.com?

How exactly did you measure it out and decide on a color?

Debating whether or not to mat my TIM, prototype SR2 and Earth Alliance.

Also have the Adam Sidwell print that I'm planning to mat something like this: http://vnl.li/r/lithos04.jpg

I haven't gotten mats from them, but I'd highly recommend checking out their site and seeing why they don't recommend mats or calling them. The lady who runs the site is very friendly and can help answer your questions. If you do decide on a mat, she can help tell you how to meaure it, but color is obviously up to you. Personally I think they look better without the mats. 

[Dustwulf]

TheKingBoar wrote...
I haven't gotten mats from them, but I'd highly recommend checking out their site and seeing why they don't recommend mats or calling them. The lady who runs the site is very friendly and can help answer your questions. If you do decide on a mat, she can help tell you how to meaure it, but color is obviously up to you. Personally I think they look better without the mats. 

Yeah I've decided to not go with mats, only on the Sidwell print. I've come to the realization that I'm probably going to be swapping them out every once and a while and I wouldn't be able to do that with mats. 

[ArtofBrad]

While there is some merit to the claim that if you use high quality acrylic there is less risk to having condensation damage than if you use glass due to the difference in heat transference of the materials (glass having much greater than acrylic, with higher chance of condensation), most framers and forums discussing conservation framing would recommend using a mat to distance your artwork from the glazing.

You can see the library of congress' recommendations regarding conservation framing here:
www.loc.gov/preservation/care/mat.html

When you frame artwork there is really 3 major things that cause damage aside from human errors that can occur while framing.  Acid, light and moisture.

Depending on how long you intend to keep your art framed would determine what type of mat you would use.

Temporary display (couple months to a year)- probably can use regular mats, these may claim to be acid free but they are really just ph-buffered using calcium carbonate and will eventually become acidic again and damage artwork.
1-15 years - premium mats using treated alphacelluose core that are lignin free.
15+ years - museum grade mats made of cotton core, and if you really want to go nuts there are fully cotton mats that are the highest preservation grade and also the most expensive.

Acid causes two issues to artwork, it yellows the artwork and causes the paper to become brittle.  Even the paper that the lithographs are printed on contain acid that will slowly cause the paper to break down, so you want to try and contribute as small as possible of an amount to that break down process.  By using a true acid free foamcore board and a lignin free mat you are doing the best you can to prevent this process.    Acid free mounting materials should also be used to slow down the process, some conservation methods involve using rice paper hinges with paste, special framers tapes, or polyester photo corners or mounting strips (I use the strips, they are super easy to work with).  Even the frame you pick can contribute acids to the problem (this is a problem with wood frames in particular), people that are paranoid about this can use frame sealing tape which adds a thin layer of aluminum inside the frame between the wood of the frame and the frame package containing your mat, artwork and mounting board. Artwork that is framed using standard mats (not lignin free) have the highest chance of causing "mat burn" which basically makes a yellow border on the artwork where the mats were touching it.

Moisture can damage artwork several ways, if condensation forms inside the frame and there is no barrier (like matboard or acrylic spacers) between the artwork and the glazing your artwork can stick to the glazing.  This can damage the print and depending on how much moisture there is it can stain the paper.   Glossy papers like photographs can even end up gluing themselves to the glazing and become ruined.  If your artwork is stored in too tight of a frame or if it is hinged or mounted to the foamboard very tightly, moisture can also cause your artwork to ripple as the paper absorbs the humid air and tries to expand and has nowhere to go on its edges.

Lastly light damage is pretty much the most guaranteed thing that will happen to your art while it is displayed, causing paper to yellow or fade.  The only thing you can do about it is slow it down by using uv protective glazing (either glass or acrylic).  Most museum grade acrylic and glass filter ~98% of uv light.  You can also try and hang your artwork in areas that are free from high amounts of light, natural or artificial.  Even artwork that is stored in a room without much natural light can still be damaged by UV light given off from lamps and other artificial light sources.

Modifié par ArtofBrad, 26 avril 2012 - 12:38 .

[Dustwulf]

ArtofBrad wrote...

While there is some merit to the claim that if you use high quality acrylic there is less risk to having condensation damage than if you use glass due to the difference in heat transference of the materials (glass having much greater than acrylic, with higher chance of condensation), most framers and forums discussing conservation framing would recommend using a mat to distance your artwork from the glazing.

You can see the library of congress' recommendations regarding conservation framing here:
www.loc.gov/preservation/care/mat.html

When you frame artwork there is really 3 major things that cause damage aside from human errors that can occur while framing.  Acid, light and moisture.

Depending on how long you intend to keep your art framed would determine what type of mat you would use.

Temporary display (couple months to a year)- probably can use regular mats, these may claim to be acid free but they are really just ph-buffered using calcium carbonate and will eventually become acidic again and damage artwork.
1-15 years - premium mats using treated alphacelluose core that are lignin free.
15+ years - museum grade mats made of cotton core, and if you really want to go nuts there are fully cotton mats that are the highest preservation grade and also the most expensive.

Acid causes two issues to artwork, it yellows the artwork and causes the paper to become brittle.  Even the paper that the lithographs are printed on contain acid that will slowly cause the paper to break down, so you want to try and contribute as small as possible of an amount to that break down process.  By using a true acid free foamcore board and a lignin free mat you are doing the best you can to prevent this process.    Acid free mounting materials should also be used to slow down the process, some conservation methods involve using rice paper hinges with paste, special framers tapes, or polyester photo corners or mounting strips (I use the strips, they are super easy to work with).  Even the frame you pick can contribute acids to the problem (this is a problem with wood frames in particular), people that are paranoid about this can use frame sealing tape which adds a thin layer of aluminum inside the frame between the wood of the frame and the frame package containing your mat, artwork and mounting board. Artwork that is framed using standard mats (not lignin free) have the highest chance of causing "mat burn" which basically makes a yellow border on the artwork where the mats were touching it.

Moisture can damage artwork several ways, if condensation forms inside the frame and there is no barrier (like matboard or acrylic spacers) between the artwork and the glazing your artwork can stick to the glazing.  This can damage the print and depending on how much moisture there is it can stain the paper.   Glossy papers like photographs can even end up gluing themselves to the glazing and become ruined.  If your artwork is stored in too tight of a frame or if it is hinged or mounted to the foamboard very tightly, moisture can also cause your artwork to ripple as the paper absorbs the humid air and tries to expand and has nowhere to go on its edges.

Lastly light damage is pretty much the most guaranteed thing that will happen to your art while it is displayed, causing paper to yellow or fade.  The only thing you can do about it is slow it down by using uv protective glazing (either glass or acrylic).  Most museum grade acrylic and glass filter ~98% of uv light.  You can also try and hang your artwork in areas that are free from high amounts of light, natural or artificial.  Even artwork that is stored in a room without much natural light can still be damaged by UV light given off from lamps and other artificial light sources.

Thanks for the info

I'm damn confused now on what I should do. As far as that list goes I fufill everything except the mat. My room is very cool and dry, not much sunlight, 98% UV filtered (and apparently indoor light filtered) plexiglass on the frames...

This gives me something to think about I guess. 

[ArtofBrad]

I didn't really like the way that my lithos had turned out, and inspired by Rasmus post discussing bottom weighting, I decided to redo my lithos I had done, and a couple new ones slightly differently.  I got rid of the cheap poster frames and ordered aluminum frames from www.framedestination.com, which has been really great (actually ships their products carefully and ships your orders in like 2 days).

These are 20x26 frames, with 2 inch borders on top and sides and 3.5 inch border on the bottom.

I really like the bottom weighted matting style, it is hard to describe why but it just makes the litho seem a lot deeper when you look at it.

Anyways some new pics and my new ones.

Team Mini-


Reaper Attack Redux-


Prototype SR2 (2) -


Aria (I am all out of clever redo references)-


Cerberus -


Purgatory Cells -


I am kinda running out of wallspace in my room with all these, after I hang Earth Alliance I will need to just start taking over my roommate's parts of the apartment.

If there is any interest for people that want to do self framing, I could make a little how to step-by-step thing when I do my next ones.

Modifié par ArtofBrad, 29 avril 2012 - 04:52 .

[Knight Fall]

ArtofBrad wrote...

I didn't really like the way that my lithos had turned out, and inspired by Rasmus post discussing bottom weighting, I decided to redo my lithos I had done, and a couple new ones slightly differently.  I got rid of the cheap poster frames and ordered aluminum frames from www.framedestination.com, which has been really great (actually ships their products carefully and ships your orders in like 2 days).

These are 20x26 frames, with 2 inch borders on top and sides and 3.5 inch border on the bottom.

I really like the bottom weighted matting style, it is hard to describe why but it just makes the litho seem a lot deeper when you look at it.

Anyways some new pics and my new ones.

Team Mini-


Reaper Attack Redux-


Prototype SR2 (2) -


Aria (I am all out of clever redo references)-


Cerberus -


Purgatory Cells -


I am kinda running out of wallspace in my room with all these, after I hang Earth Alliance I will need to just start taking over my roommate's parts of the apartment.

If there is any interest for people that want to do self framing, I could make a little how to step-by-step thing when I do my next ones.

Dude this is awesome! Can you describe what matting you chose and the size?

[Dustwulf]

That matting actually looks really good! Measurements would be awesome, might do that myself. 

[Gorakka]

ArtofBrad, that looks amazing! Exactly the look I would like to have on my walls. Definitely would appreciate a step-by-step when you have the time

[Kem1995]

Yeah they do look pretty good, would love a step by step guide if possible! 

[Hulkstr8]

Are you framing them yourself? Is that hard to do?

[Kem1995]

I've been buying just the frame and putting the lithograph inside so it all shows, never considered the mat board, to late now though.

Also, my TIM lithograph seems to be missing a bit from the top side, a little to short.. were some mis printed or something?

[Hulkstr8]

Yeah..sometimes they aren't all cut perfectly. I had a Collectors that was 1/4 inch too big on the top.

[ArtofBrad]

Thanks everyone.

The method I use to frame is buying a ready made frame with foamcore and acrylic.  The site that these frames came from is Frame Destination (located in Dallas, TX - unfortunately for international people they only ship in the US).  I buy my mats from an art supply company, these mats are crescent ragmat (museum grade cotton mats).

The color codes for them:
Reaper Attack: Top - Raven Black - 1577, Bottom - Really Red - 1673
Purgatory Cells: Top - Copley Grey - 1575, Bottom - Dark Grey - 1576
Prototype SR2: Top - Lapis - 1626, Bottom - Storm Blue - 1551
Cerberus: Top - Off White - 1606, Bottom - WilliamsBurg Blue - 1578 (Light in my room makes this look good with the off white, if you have a bright room probably would want to use white).
Aria: Top - Raven Black - 1577, Bottom - Off White - 1606
Team Mini: Top - Russet - 1558, Bottom - Raven Black - 1577

Before I start the project I use a ruler and just measure out the borders.  Since these frames are 20x26, and I knew that I wanted to bottom weight the frame I needed to figure out how big of a border I would need for the sides and the bottom.

On the horizontal 18x24 lithos, the little grey border lines on the top and bottom are 1.5 inches from the top and bottom.  The white border on the sides are 1.5 inches wide.  So I knew that I wanted to cover up the grey lines, and I also wanted to leave a little bit of white border on the sides.  So I decided that my mats would cover up 1.75 inches of the print on the top and bottom, and 1 inch of the print on the side.  Knowing this, I had 1 inch on each side that would need to be covered (18 + 2 = 20) , so the side borders would be 2 inches, I also kept the top border at 2 inches to keep it uniform to the sides.  This let me know that my bottom would have to be 3.5 inches to fill in the rest of the frame (I have no idea if this calculation helps anyone else, but this is how I thought of it in my head.  Top + Bottom = 1.75*2 + 2.  The 1.75 stands for how much i want to cover the art with the mats, the +2 stands for the 2 inches of space left in the frame.  Since this is 5.5 and I know my top border is going to be 2, the remaining amount was 3.5).

The vertical lithos are basically the same concept except the bottom border is only 2.5 inches because the artwork is so much larger.  The grey lines on the vertical ones are only like 1 inch from the paper border as well.

Once you know what your plan is, the rest is actually kind of easy.  Since I used double mats, you have a top mat and a bottom mat to consider.  Usually you expose 1/4 inch of the bottom mat, so this means when you cut borders on your top mat, you need to cut them 1/4 inch smaller (so in my case that would be top and sides 1.75, bottom 3.25).  Then when you cut the bottom mat you will increase your borders by 1/4 inch and get that cool effect.

I use a Logan 350-1 Mat Cutter which is suitable for cutting mats under 30 inches.  It comes with 2 types of cutters, a straight cutter for downsizing mats, and a bevel cutter for doing the 45 degree angles that make the mats look awesome.

The list of supplies that I use to do framing are:

The cutters-



The cutting board itself-



Linen Hinging Tape (For hinging your mats to your mounting board, think of it kind of like binding a book)-


ATG Tape (You can use with or without the gun, without is kind of annoying though.  Be careful with this stuff it is a PERMANENT adhesive and will damage your prints if it comes into contact.  It is for joining mats together to create the double mat, not to touch your artwork)-


Archival Mounting strips (For attaching your artwork to your mounting board without adhesive touching it, think of it like making a little pocket that your artwork just sits in)-


Using the cutter is really easy, this video that Logan made explains how to cut a double mat, and using the ATG tape occurs in here.

www.youtube.com/watch

Once you have your mats cut, you need to bind your mats and your mounting board together and attach your print to your mounting board.  This video is what I modeled after.  The one major difference is the tape that I showed has water activated adhesive, this guy uses a peel and stick adhesive, the concept is the same though.  One thing to keep in mind is that you don't want your artwork touching the linen tape, so on my prints, since the artwork goes up to 1/4 inch on the top of the mat, I actually "bound" the mats and mounting board on the bottom thicker part of the mat.

www.youtube.com/watch

After mounting the print to the mounting board you are basically done, all that is left is to put your frame package beneath the glazing (glass or acrylic) and stick it in the frame.  I clean the acrylic with a plastics cleaner, but you can use dish soap and a clean microfibre cloth as well, just don't use paper products or ammonia based cleaners because it will ruin your acrylic.

That is basically the whole process.  It takes about 30-45 minutes for me start to finish to frame one print, and that is because you have to screw around with taking the frame apart and all that stuff.  If you are just looking to do a few prints, then I would not recommend this as a method to save money.  I did it because I wanted to frame several pieces, and I also viewed it as a little self challenge in acquiring a new skill to mess around with.  The more you frame though the higher the savings are,  After eating the initial cost of buying the cutter and different tapes (about $150), framing each print costs about $60-65 dollars for an archival and conservation framing (which is completely reversible with no damage to the prints), which is a pretty cheap I think.  Plus it is actually kind of fun to do and it is nice to be able to not only show off the cool art but then say that I put the whole thing together myself.

Modifié par ArtofBrad, 30 avril 2012 - 12:46 .

[Legion_IV]

Does anyone have any decent places in the UK where I can buy a frame for my Archangel lithograph to the quality of some these on this thread? All I seem to find is eFrame however they don't really have anything I am looking for and anything local is just your standard cheap stuff.

I have been searching for days now and nothing is coming up. Infact I found pictureframeguys.com and got my hopes up only to be crushed again when I found out they were based in Seattle .

Thanks.

[Gorakka]

Forgot to thank you ArtofBrad.

Great guide.

[ArtofBrad]

After debating about how I wanted to do Earth Alliance, I finally bought the frame and mats to do it.  Unfortunately I don't have a cutter that can do these massive sized mats, so I had some custom cut.  Total cost was about $150.



This thing is advertised as 39.5x22, but it is really 39x22 which is kind of confusing, but on the wall it is massive.

Here is a comparison shot to some of  my other lithos in my room:

Modifié par ArtofBrad, 09 mai 2012 - 01:42 .

[Knight Fall]

ArtofBrad wrote...

After debating about how I wanted to do Earth Alliance, I finally bought the frame and mats to do it.  Unfortunately I don't have a cutter that can do these massive sized mats, so I had some custom cut.  Total cost was about $150.



This thing is advertised as 39.5x22, but it is really 39x22 which is kind of confusing, but on the wall it is massive.

Here is a comparison shot to some of  my other lithos in my room:

Very cool! Where did you get the mats?

[ArtofBrad]

I also got the mats from Frame Destination when I had them cut the frame (40x23), the top is Spanish Vellum and the bottom is Brittany (the opening is 36 inches by 18.5 inches).

[Legendary Chop Chop]

Recently got around to framing Jack... I really love this litho.

i.imgur.com/PsjJ8.jpg

Additionally, here is my beloved Miranda I have framed up:

i.imgur.com/dYEeF.jpg

The wonderful Garrus litho:

i.imgur.com/Pj3rS.jpg

I have some more, but no pics yet. I'll get around to putting up some quality pictures at some point, I think.

Modifié par Legendary Chop Chop, 13 mai 2012 - 07:06 .