i look forward to seeing more of your efforts
3D-printed Reaper
Débuté par
geceka
, août 27 2012 09:11
#26
Posté 07 septembre 2012 - 10:22
havoc373
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nice work, i tried making a normandy 3d print, but my project was a little too ambitious, it was supposed to be 1.3 meters long. it turned out i didnt have the scratch neccesary to pay for something like that. i did make a 1:1 replica of shepards alliance medel of honor though.
i look forward to seeing more of your efforts
i look forward to seeing more of your efforts
Retour en haut
#27
Posté 07 septembre 2012 - 10:35
Vlk3
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This is just amazing I'd love to decorate my room with Reapers 
I'd love to decorate my room with Reapers
#28
Posté 08 septembre 2012 - 09:19
Tugga_gott
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Are you willing to share yours 3D files, I also have a 3D printer (Rapman) and would like to try printing these myself.
#29
Posté 08 septembre 2012 - 03:34
Havok1369
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soulstriker09 wrote...
COOOOOOOOOOL.
Now go print the rest of the model ships and get an aquarium and a space hamster for your room. 8D
And a severed Husk head that follows you around with it's stare!
#30
Posté 08 septembre 2012 - 09:37
Zimek
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geceka wrote...
For the technically inclined, I printed this in black PLA plastic at 0.2mm layer height on a modified RepRap Mendel with an ACME-rod z-axis, a PCB heated bed and with a .35mm nozzle
WHAT.
Modifié par Zimek, 08 septembre 2012 - 09:38 .
#31
Posté 09 septembre 2012 - 02:56
geceka
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havoc373 wrote...
nice work, i tried making a normandy 3d print, but my project was a little too ambitious, it was supposed to be 1.3 meters long. it turned out i didnt have the scratch neccesary to pay for something like that. i did make a 1:1 replica of shepards alliance medel of honor though.
Whoa, yeah, 1.3m sounds huge! Yes, that's the biggest advantage of those DIY printers, e.g. that the cost per print so low that you can just play around a bit and try different things.
Havok1369 wrote...
And a severed Husk head that follows you around with it's stare!
Heh, yes, I even extracted the husk model by accident as well, since the package files aren't named too descriptively (I had to look into a lot of them that had "Reaper" somewhere in the name, until I actually found the Sovereign-class)...
Tugga_gott wrote...
Are you willing to share yours 3D files, I also have a 3D printer (Rapman) and would like to try printing these myself.
I sent you a PM.
Modifié par geceka, 09 septembre 2012 - 03:23 .
#32
Posté 09 septembre 2012 - 08:52
Dark Satris
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nao u must paintz
i want 1
+1000 internetz
i want 1
+1000 internetz
#33
Posté 12 septembre 2012 - 02:15
Daevin
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geceka wrote...
Daevin wrote...
Oh, god, that's terrifyingly fantastic. Now, there are probably licensing problems... but would you be able to... exchange some of these for a specific monetary value?
If anything, I'd rather like to give some away for free, as to avoid the whole licensing deal – if you own the game (which you obviously do), printing the game models should be "fair use", at least according to EU law, well, unless you sell them. Also, the thing that's conceptually so nice about DIY 3d printing is that it comes really awfully close to a "post-scarcity" technology, as the price of the plastic is completely negligible (I'd estimate the cost of the whole print at maybe 1 or 2 dollars/euros in raw materials).
Alas, printing the large model takes a lot of time at this resolution, though. I'm currently printing a smaller version, and maybe I'll give away a few of those for free if there's a demand. The only thing is that I promised to print a set of 3D printer parts (the RepRap is "self-replicating") for a friend first, but afterwards... Well, I'm not opposed at all to making a few fellow ME fans happy :-) I might still want to ask a mod before doing that, though.
Well, people draw pictures featuring ME characters and post them on the internet with no legal Reapercussions (see what I did there? I'm such a nerd...). Your 3D prints are sculptures, and can be considered art, so your conscience can be clean, I'm sure.
What are your thoughts on shipping one of those this way? I'm in Canada, and since you keep referencing euros, I have a feeling S&H might cost... lol any idea on the legality on paying you for shipping and handling?
I don't have a 3D printer, but what did you use to extract the char models?
Modifié par Daevin, 12 septembre 2012 - 02:17 .
#34
Posté 18 septembre 2012 - 08:15
geceka
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Just a quick update: I'm currently printing the models for those that will get one from me – I suppose I'll manage to ship them during next week (I want to print them all first, then ship them out together). I'll post a couple of pictures soon!
#36
Posté 06 octobre 2012 - 02:18
geceka
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It took me a bit longer than I thought, but I shipped all of them yesterday. I suppose everyone will receive theirs soon, depending on where you live (Europeans will probably get theirs a lot faster than people overseas, since I'm shipping them from Europe).
I'll do another post in a couple of days with some instructions on how to assemble the parts.
Oh, and here's a picture of a few of the part sets on my desk.
I'll do another post in a couple of days with some instructions on how to assemble the parts.
Oh, and here's a picture of a few of the part sets on my desk.
#37
Posté 06 octobre 2012 - 07:33
Gravisanimi
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Thanks, I'll post mine when it's glued and painted up
#38
Posté 06 octobre 2012 - 08:27
N7 Shadow 90
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Wow! The Reapers and Liara are both fantastic!
#39
Posté 06 octobre 2012 - 08:34
Fixers0
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you should do several other ships from the Mass Effect's universe (Turian cruiser, Alliance cruiser, Cerberus cruiser, Asari Cruiser, etc) aswell.
#40
Posté 07 octobre 2012 - 04:12
Dormin
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They look great! Excited for The Arrival now. I won't get hold of it until the weekend regardless living up in college. Once I assemble it and give it a lick of paint, maybe some LEDs, I will put up photos.
#42
Posté 08 octobre 2012 - 02:52
AsheraII
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I'm seriously considering buying a pre-built prusa mendel now. I have two left hands when things involve soldering etc, so building one myself is totally out of question. A bit of fidgetting with knobs to get it to work right or connecting it to a computer would be less of a problem.
I'm also wondering where you get or make all the models, and also wonder what type of files are needed in case I want to make my own models (for example, in Wings 3D or something like that), but also where/how to extract something like that reaper model (I doubt there's a Mass Relay model anywhere in game though, maybe for the small one in the Citadel from ME1?).
Also, how heavy is a model, like that Liara bust you made? From what I read about it, 1 kg of material would result in roughly 1 kg of model, though I figure some ~5-10% could go to waste as strutting to prevent the model from falling over while printing. So with some crude idea of dimensions, I could estimate about how long a spool of material would last me.
I'm also wondering where you get or make all the models, and also wonder what type of files are needed in case I want to make my own models (for example, in Wings 3D or something like that), but also where/how to extract something like that reaper model (I doubt there's a Mass Relay model anywhere in game though, maybe for the small one in the Citadel from ME1?).
Also, how heavy is a model, like that Liara bust you made? From what I read about it, 1 kg of material would result in roughly 1 kg of model, though I figure some ~5-10% could go to waste as strutting to prevent the model from falling over while printing. So with some crude idea of dimensions, I could estimate about how long a spool of material would last me.
#43
Posté 08 octobre 2012 - 09:08
geceka
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Dormin wrote...
They look great! Excited for The Arrival now. I won't get hold of it until the weekend regardless living up in college. Once I assemble it and give it a lick of paint, maybe some LEDs, I will put up photos.
heh, don't worry, I shipped via normal mail, not a courier, so unless you're in Europe (where I shipped from), it's rather unlikely there'll be an Arrival this week. You probably shouldn't have blown up the Alpha relay... ;-)
AsheraII wrote...
I'm seriously considering buying a pre-built prusa mendel now. I have two left hands when things involve soldering etc, so building one myself is totally out of question. A bit of fidgetting with knobs to get it to work right or connecting it to a computer would be less of a problem.
Sounds good, but you should be prepared to put some work into it until you've got it working well. It's still a bit of a tinkerer's thing to play with, and the first ready-to-print affordable 3d printers are only appearing on the market right now (like Makerbot's newest offering, which apparently sheds the advantages of being "hackable" and open-source for being easier to set up).
AsheraII wrote...
I'm also wondering where you get or make all the models, and also wonder what type of files are needed in case I want to make my own models (for example, in Wings 3D or something like that), but also where/how to extract something like that reaper model (I doubt there's a Mass Relay model anywhere in game though, maybe for the small one in the Citadel from ME1?).
I got the Reaper model by extracting it from ME3's assets (just google for a tutorial, there are plenty, but I think they are not allowed to be linked here). Once extracted, I used "Cheetah 3D" (a Mac 3D modeller) to pose it, since it includes a skeleton if you extract it the right way. Finally, you need to "repair" it a bit to make it printable, because you can only print shapes that are "solid", e.g. no holes, dangling triangles, self-intersections, unconnected edges, etc... Basically, you can render pretty much anything in a game engine, but in the real world, it has to obey the laws of physics :-)
Regarding the Mass Relay model, I don't think there is one, and the one on the Citadel is probably part of the map geometry, so it would be difficult to extract. I'm still hoping for an eventual DLC that lets you board a Mass Relay (there are windows on it, right, and I wonder what it's like in there) – Then there'd also be a good model to print.
The file type most slicers (the program that divides a model into individual layers for the printer) take the STL format, which is a solid-geometry format. You can basically export it from any 3D program, but you're still responsible for ensuring that your model is, in fact, solid.
AsheraII wrote...
Also, how heavy is a model, like that Liara bust you made? From what I read about it, 1 kg of material would result in roughly 1 kg of model, though I figure some ~5-10% could go to waste as strutting to prevent the model from falling over while printing. So with some crude idea of dimensions, I could estimate about how long a spool of material would last me.
The Liara bust is pretty light, and so is the Reaper. You have to know that you typically don't print solidly, but rather use a sparse infill (e.g. solid outer shells with just a few struts and plenty of air in between). Liara is nearly entirely hollow.
Basically, a roll of filament goes *a lot* farther than you would think. A lot.
#44
Posté 08 octobre 2012 - 10:02
geceka
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Alright, so here are the assembly instructions for when you receive your parts.
Preparation
Once you unpack your parts, make sure they all survived their transit well. I used a padded envelope and taped the most brittle part (the thin end of the tail) to a piece of cardboard to support it, but if anything broke off, don't worry – a small drop of superglue should fix anything.
Now lay out all the parts in front of you. There should be three parts for the main body (head, chest and tail), 6 small legs and 5 front tentacles.
The tentacles and legs have a "good" side (the one that was on top during printing) and a "bad" side (the one that rested on the support material at the bottom): For the front tentacles, the "good" side should always be on top, and for the legs, the "good" side should point towards the head of the Reaper. With that information, you should be able to find out which tentacle goes where and whether a leg goes to the left or right side of the body.
The legs are ever so slightly different in size: The smallest leg should be at the back, the largest one should be at front of each side. If you can't really make out a difference, don't worry, you'll hardly notice anything if you get it wrong.
Now have a good look at the parts and remove any excess plastic on them. I'd recommend using a sharp hobby knife for that. Don't go completely bonkers though, and remember that you can easily add material again once you have removed it. Only worry about obvious "warts" and stuff like that, but every 3d print will have some minor misperfections, so don't worry too much about it.
When you remove material (or at placed where I removed support material), the plastic might be a little bit lighter than elsewhere. You can fix such place easily by quickly and shortly heating them with a lighter. Like, really quickly, just for a fraction of a second. Don't heat it for too long, as the plastic will lose shape then. You can also gently stroke over it quickly with your thumb to remove minor color or shape imperfections when it's heated a bit, but again, don't go overboard with it.
Assembly
I'd recommend to start with body. It should be obvious how it fits together. Note that the mirror-like bottoms of the body parts might not fit perfectly onto their counterparts – That's because the parts have to be squished a bit against the build platform to stick, so the bottom is a bit larger than it should be. Thus, I'd use a sharp knife again to trim the first layer, so that the parts fit well.
I used superglue for the body parts. Access to a Collector base also helps somewhat, but if you blew that up, a Citadel will do, too.
Once the main body is glued together and dry, quickly and gently heat the plastic where the parts meet with a lighter. Note "quickly" and "gently". DON'T heat it too much, just soften it the tiniest bit. Gently stroke over the seam with your thumb while the plastic is ever so slightly soft, until you are happy with the fit (there will remain a bit of seam, though).
Next, get some thick glue (don't use extremely liquid superglue for this) – I used hot glue, but a thick, strong hobby glue should work, too. You need thick glue because the legs and tentacles are not "snap-fit", but require a blob of glue to stay in place. Alternatively, you'd have to resort to Mass Effect fields.
It's best to start with the small legs. Refer to the pictures in my original post for the actual positions. The legs should be angled towards the tail if you look at the Reaper from the side, and they should also be angled towards the back a bit if you look at it from the bottom (thus, they are twisted along two axes). The left/right legs on each slot should also overlap a little bit. If it's not clear what I mean, just look at the pictures again. It'll become obvious. The body has little cups for where the legs attach, so that should be obvious, too. I started with the back most leg and alternated on the left/right side until all 6 legs are glued in. Just remember to always play with the position of a leg until you like it, before you proceed to glue it in.
Let's wrap it up by gluing on the tentacles now. I glued them in in pairs, e.g. left back claw, then right back claw, then repeat for the middle claws, and finally the top claw.
The large back claws go into the large cup on the Reaper head. For the correct placement, refer to the pictures again (also, the "Reaper opening up to attack" shape is so iconic that it's really easy to get right).
There are smaller cups for the middle claws. Those are a bit tricky, since the claws don't fit in there so well, but this was an area where the original model was self-intersecting a lot, and I didn't want to clean this up. It fits anyway, but you'll have to use a lot of "supporting" glue.
If you like Harbinger, just skip the next step.
The top tentacle is very easy to glue on, since the head has a nice flat area where it goes. Glue it in a way that it's pretty much flush with the front of the head.
Touching it up
At this point, just check the model for excess glue and any imperfections you might still want to clean up. Remember the trick with the lighter to touch up discolorations where you took away excess plastic and to reduce the body seams.
Finally, I used some black acrylic paint to cover up the blobs of glue it took to keep the legs and tentacles in place. The acrylic color is pretty much indistinguishable from the color of the model, but you might have luck with black, water-proof pens, too.
Good luck.
Preparation
Once you unpack your parts, make sure they all survived their transit well. I used a padded envelope and taped the most brittle part (the thin end of the tail) to a piece of cardboard to support it, but if anything broke off, don't worry – a small drop of superglue should fix anything.
Now lay out all the parts in front of you. There should be three parts for the main body (head, chest and tail), 6 small legs and 5 front tentacles.
The tentacles and legs have a "good" side (the one that was on top during printing) and a "bad" side (the one that rested on the support material at the bottom): For the front tentacles, the "good" side should always be on top, and for the legs, the "good" side should point towards the head of the Reaper. With that information, you should be able to find out which tentacle goes where and whether a leg goes to the left or right side of the body.
The legs are ever so slightly different in size: The smallest leg should be at the back, the largest one should be at front of each side. If you can't really make out a difference, don't worry, you'll hardly notice anything if you get it wrong.
Now have a good look at the parts and remove any excess plastic on them. I'd recommend using a sharp hobby knife for that. Don't go completely bonkers though, and remember that you can easily add material again once you have removed it. Only worry about obvious "warts" and stuff like that, but every 3d print will have some minor misperfections, so don't worry too much about it.
When you remove material (or at placed where I removed support material), the plastic might be a little bit lighter than elsewhere. You can fix such place easily by quickly and shortly heating them with a lighter. Like, really quickly, just for a fraction of a second. Don't heat it for too long, as the plastic will lose shape then. You can also gently stroke over it quickly with your thumb to remove minor color or shape imperfections when it's heated a bit, but again, don't go overboard with it.
Assembly
I'd recommend to start with body. It should be obvious how it fits together. Note that the mirror-like bottoms of the body parts might not fit perfectly onto their counterparts – That's because the parts have to be squished a bit against the build platform to stick, so the bottom is a bit larger than it should be. Thus, I'd use a sharp knife again to trim the first layer, so that the parts fit well.
I used superglue for the body parts. Access to a Collector base also helps somewhat, but if you blew that up, a Citadel will do, too.
Once the main body is glued together and dry, quickly and gently heat the plastic where the parts meet with a lighter. Note "quickly" and "gently". DON'T heat it too much, just soften it the tiniest bit. Gently stroke over the seam with your thumb while the plastic is ever so slightly soft, until you are happy with the fit (there will remain a bit of seam, though).
Next, get some thick glue (don't use extremely liquid superglue for this) – I used hot glue, but a thick, strong hobby glue should work, too. You need thick glue because the legs and tentacles are not "snap-fit", but require a blob of glue to stay in place. Alternatively, you'd have to resort to Mass Effect fields.
It's best to start with the small legs. Refer to the pictures in my original post for the actual positions. The legs should be angled towards the tail if you look at the Reaper from the side, and they should also be angled towards the back a bit if you look at it from the bottom (thus, they are twisted along two axes). The left/right legs on each slot should also overlap a little bit. If it's not clear what I mean, just look at the pictures again. It'll become obvious. The body has little cups for where the legs attach, so that should be obvious, too. I started with the back most leg and alternated on the left/right side until all 6 legs are glued in. Just remember to always play with the position of a leg until you like it, before you proceed to glue it in.
Let's wrap it up by gluing on the tentacles now. I glued them in in pairs, e.g. left back claw, then right back claw, then repeat for the middle claws, and finally the top claw.
The large back claws go into the large cup on the Reaper head. For the correct placement, refer to the pictures again (also, the "Reaper opening up to attack" shape is so iconic that it's really easy to get right).
There are smaller cups for the middle claws. Those are a bit tricky, since the claws don't fit in there so well, but this was an area where the original model was self-intersecting a lot, and I didn't want to clean this up. It fits anyway, but you'll have to use a lot of "supporting" glue.
If you like Harbinger, just skip the next step.
The top tentacle is very easy to glue on, since the head has a nice flat area where it goes. Glue it in a way that it's pretty much flush with the front of the head.
Touching it up
At this point, just check the model for excess glue and any imperfections you might still want to clean up. Remember the trick with the lighter to touch up discolorations where you took away excess plastic and to reduce the body seams.
Finally, I used some black acrylic paint to cover up the blobs of glue it took to keep the legs and tentacles in place. The acrylic color is pretty much indistinguishable from the color of the model, but you might have luck with black, water-proof pens, too.
Good luck.
#45
Posté 11 octobre 2012 - 09:57
Moofu
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Crazy stuff! I must get my self a 3D printer someday.. Wauw..
#46
Posté 12 octobre 2012 - 07:20
Dormin
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Thank you for the sweet! and the Reaper of course =P looking forward to toying around with it today.
#47
Posté 14 octobre 2012 - 02:28
geceka
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Dormin wrote...
Thank you for the sweet! and the Reaper of course =P looking forward to toying around with it today.
:-D You are the first one to tell me they received it, yay! Good luck assembling it – Be sure to maybe post a pic of it, once you're done!
#48
Posté 14 octobre 2012 - 06:29
HNNNNNNG
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I've been seeing more and more of these 3d printer things...
#49
Posté 16 octobre 2012 - 03:40
bluebeam
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OMG the Reaper is here! I'll assemble it (next weekend) and then build the Crucible.
Thank you geceka, I'll post a pic when I'll have it done.
Thank you geceka, I'll post a pic when I'll have it done.
#50
Posté 16 octobre 2012 - 09:10
geceka
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bluebeam wrote...
OMG the Reaper is here! I'll assemble it (next weekend) and then build the Crucible.
Thank you geceka, I'll post a pic when I'll have it done.
Yay, good luck, I'm looking forward to see how yours turns out!
