48 réponses à ce sujet

[Grinch57]

OP, careful about removing the plastic shroud.  Adambiotic's idea may be the best (pci-e risers), if it will work for your computer, is not too expensive and won't put your PC at risk.

~$17 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.co...pcie riser card

Modifié par Grinch57, 02 avril 2013 - 04:09 .

[Crusader75]

Slother93 wrote...

I'm a thermal engineer and have designed many boards during my career. That heat sink is designed for natural convection (without airflow). If you shorten the height of the pin fins, but add a dedicated air flow source (fan) you will more than compensate. Trim off as little as possible, since the length does impact cooling efficiency. Try to avoid prying it off as it is likely held on by thermal tape and you will damage it during removal and render it useless.

Also check the power supply ratings for each voltage rail and make sure there is enough power to supply the card before you start the mods. If all else fails you could consider submersion cooling where you sink the whole setup into a mineral oil bath. The mineral oil can hold a lot of heat and is non-conductive.

Good luck.

This... or you can spend a little more and get a water cooling system that typically includes a cooling block for the CPU and one for the northbridge (the chip that is covered by that heatsink). the cooling block should be lower than the current heatsink.

[RedJohn]

Also check the power supply ratings for each voltage rail and make sure there is enough power to supply the card before you start the mods

Please, tell me how exactly I do that.

[Slother93]

Standard single slot risers won't work since this is a dual slot card. And the right angle adapter may cause more interference issues.

IF there is enough power the straightest solution is to dremel out the clearance you need in the heat sink. Tape the board surrounding it to help protect against slivers of metal causing shorts on the board. Definitely get some canned air and thoroughly clean the area afterwards. And add a fan that blows across the remaining fins.

But the first step is to check the power on your PSU. If you find a connector from the PSU that fits the auxiliary power port on the graphics card you are probably OK.

[Cricketer15]

Force it in redjohn

[Slother93]

RedJohn wrote...

Also check the power supply ratings for each voltage rail and make sure there is enough power to supply the card before you start the mods

Please, tell me how exactly I do that.

The easiest way would be to post a picture of the label on your PSU, or provide the model number and manufacturer. I can use that to determine if its compatible with the graphics card.

[XPERIA_Z]

Cricketer15 wrote...

Force it in redjohn

That's gonna hurt yolo... do it slowly.. real slow and do small move while inserting it.

[Slother93]

XPERIA_Z wrote...

Cricketer15 wrote...

Force it in redjohn

That's gonna hurt yolo... do it slowly.. real slow and do small move while inserting it.

Just the tip, I promise. Lol. 

[RedJohn]

Slother93 wrote...

RedJohn wrote...

Also check the power supply ratings for each voltage rail and make sure there is enough power to supply the card before you start the mods

Please, tell me how exactly I do that.

The easiest way would be to post a picture of the label on your PSU, or provide the model number and manufacturer. I can use that to determine if its compatible with the graphics card.

I think it isn't, that's why i'm saving since couple of days ago to get a new one, I think I'll be able to buy it in 2 weeks.


Here is a picture of the label.

[MP-Ryan]

Please please please please do not plug in that cord without checking your PSU wattage.

Exploding PSUs from overdraw are neither nice-smelly nor pretty.

EDIT:  Ninja'ed.

Modifié par MP-Ryan, 02 avril 2013 - 04:30 .

[RedJohn]

MP-Ryan wrote...

Please please please please do not plug in that cord without checking your PSU wattage.

Exploding PSUs from overdraw are neither nice-smelly nor pretty.

I know, i've seen 3 PSUs exploding, literaly.

The first one was when I was 12, my first PC died and I wanted to fix it, I am talented making things work, so I make it work until the PSU exploded.

[MP-Ryan]

OK, RJ, what other components are normally running on your system? List all PCI-E/PCI devices, hard disks, optical media drives, etc.

A quick Google suggest the GTX 260 requires a minimum PSU wattage of 500 W, which that PSU just barely exceeds. Were you running a high-end PSU I'd say you're probably OK, but that photo looks like a generic and that concerns me (cheap PSUs often don't actually provide power at their rated levels).

Modifié par MP-Ryan, 02 avril 2013 - 04:34 .

[MP-Ryan]

If you are buying a new PSU, there are a few reliable brands out there. High-end PSUs have less variance in their voltages, means they output closer to their actual rating. A good PSU in 550 or 600 W should be fine for that card.

[RedJohn]

MP-Ryan wrote...


OK, RJ, what other components are normally running on your system? List all PCI-E/PCI devices, hard disks, optical media drives, etc.

A quick Google suggest the GTX 260 requires a minimum PSU wattage of 500 W, which that PSU just barely exceeds. Were you running a high-end PSU I'd say you're probably OK, but that photo looks like a generic and that concerns me.

Well i have 2 HDDs, one of them is an IDE Maxtor of 80GB, and the other is a Sata Sangsumg of 120GB, I do have DVD-R but is not plugged.

I have 4 GB ram DDRII ( 2*2 ) and the Pentium D 805 CPU, which right now is OC'd @ 3.2 Ghz ( 2.6 native ).

I could take down the overloack though if needed.

[Slother93]

Here are the power requirements for the graphics card:

Minimum of a 500 Watt power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 36 Amp. Two available 6-pin Molex connectors.

The PSU is 525W with two 12V rails at 16 Amps each, giving you 32 Amps total. I'd call that marginal at best and think it's a no go. Sorry.

[capn233]

Upgrading desktops is fun since you can get into a giant loop of things that you need to change.

Really the amps on the various rails is more important than the actual total watt rating, but you have bigger issues so far.

If it was me, I would look for a flatter heatsink for the chip (north or south bridge I imagine) and get some more thermal tape and put it on, if that is what is actually holding that heatsink on. It is likely aluminum, so if you could found a copper one that was slightly smaller it should be about as good. If you really only need a very small amount of clearance, than I think the idea of using a Dremel (or a file if you don't have the equivalent power tool... it is likely an aluminum heatsink so it won't be too tough) is the next best bet.

[RedJohn]

Slother93 wrote...

Here are the power requirements for the graphics card:

Minimum of a 500 Watt power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 36 Amp. Two available 6-pin Molex connectors.

The PSU is 525W with two 12V rails at 16 Amps each, giving you 32 Amps total. I'd call that marginal at best and think it's a no go. Sorry.

So not even if I use 2 of these for the card?




If not well, I will get a new PSU in around 2 weeks

[MP-Ryan]

Try this: http://www.extreme.o...culatorlite.jsp

My opinion: A 525 W PSU is pushing it for your setup + a GTX 260. If you had a better PSU I'd say maybe, but based on what you've posted I'd say don't risk it, buy a new PSU. I've been really happy with my Corsair unit, if you're researching recommendations, but mine's a lower wattage than you'll need.

[Eelectrica]

[quote]RedJohn wrote...

[quote]Dunvi wrote...

Damn. That's what I was worried about, that and the DVI thing. Ah well, no regrets YOLO, we'll find some way around. I'll do some googling when I'm not on my phone.[/quote]


I got the DVI - VGA adapter already 


[quote]Eelectrica wrote...

Looks like the heat sync on the board at the end of the PCI-E is blocking i.
Do the plastic covers at the end of the video card where the fan is come off easily? That might be your best and only bet.

By removing the heatsink from the board and you could end up with a dead board.

EDIT: Or yes a smaller heatsink if you can get one could work too.
[/quote]

What about if I cut part of the heatsink on the mobo?, i mean, reduce their height

I was thinking more along the along the line of doing something that at least is reversable if it doesn't work.

I guess with enough duct tape anything's reversable

[Faust29A]

There are internal fans, too.

[Xaijin]

RedJohn wrote...

Slother93 wrote...

Here are the power requirements for the graphics card:

Minimum of a 500 Watt power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 36 Amp. Two available 6-pin Molex connectors.

The PSU is 525W with two 12V rails at 16 Amps each, giving you 32 Amps total. I'd call that marginal at best and think it's a no go. Sorry.

So not even if I use 2 of these for the card?




If not well, I will get a new PSU in around 2 weeks

Absolutely not.

You need a new PSU and you need a PCI x8 riser and you need a copper flat sink, or you are looking at heartache.

Price those and the look at how much it is compared ot a new system sans case.

[Slother93]

Yeah, you could probably get it to work, but you'll be pushing the PSU to run near 100% of its capacity. You get more efficiency and less heat in the 50% to 80% loading range, so a larger PSU would be better long term. You could burn out your existing PSU if you have it pegged at max power for any length of time. But if you are going to get a new one anyway, what do you have to lose?

[FasterThanFTL]

This is just sad. No wonder you spend more time on forums than in the game.

[Ninja Stan]

Not ME3 related. Hardware issues can be discussed in the Off-Topic forum. Thank you.

End of line.