334 réponses à ce sujet

[Eguintir Eligard]

Ok just wanted to make a few notes on clothing now that I'm doing it. And I'll throw in a screenshot for the rest, as fatty is now a run way model.

 

Below is the best effort yet I've had of getting the material to completely stitch together.

 

Here's an overview of the process, and what I've figured out that needs to be done.

 

1. Draw a 2d spline of the clothing. At the very least you will need a front panel and a back panel. May also need sleeves etc. Anywhere you see seams in real life, there should be a panel in this spline for the material adjoining said seams.
2. The splines of all the panels need to be attached so they form one unified spline, all facing the same direction (front usually)
3. SUPER KEY POINT: select all spline vertices and click the BREAK button in the panel of options.
4. Add the garment maker modifier to the spline object.
5. Move the panels in garment maker mode so that they are facing opposite directions, back facing back, front facing front, and surrounding the model as they should
6.  Seams can be clicked, then ctrl click to highlight the opposing seam then click create seam, reverse if need be if the threads are twisted
7. Join any seams that should be joined and add cloth modifier
8. In cloth modifier its all under object properties. Add the creature/model to be a collision object, and the clothing a cloth object, choose a type of material.
9. Press any of the simulate buttons to start sewing. Sometimes moves very fast. Best results with damped local simulate.
10. Extra tip I found out (see picture).. you have to actually have enough cloth to fit. If there is not enough material, 3ds will not stretch it while it pulls everything.. it only pulls on the threads and moves the cloth together. Or if it does stretch the material, it's not by much. So make sure it's big enough or you'll have the following happen.
11. Click seams and choose sewing stiffness to allow for un-equal seam strength, for example if you want certain seams to move slower / faster
12. Higher density (0.30+) seems to be a big factor in getting a good fit. Afterward though you are left with zillions of faces
13. How to complete seams: uncheck the cloth option "use sewing springs" 

 

 

 

[Eguintir Eligard]

I'm having an issue getting the clothing modifier to fit nicely over the fatty. It keeps cutting him off. Ashamed to admit I've spent all day on this. At first it seemed the density was the answer but I'm trying everything and you still get the base model bulging through the vest. I tried different offsets, cutting the fabric wide at the waist, different sewing strengths. I really think the problem comes from his huge gut. Does anyone know what to do at all?? You can see his belt sticking out in the pictures, bottom of the vest:

 

[Dann-J]

I would have used the diffuse and normal textures to imply clothing, rather than model it separately. You'd expect light clothing to be stretched taut on a boombar like that.

[Eguintir Eligard]

I wasted an entire day watching tutorials and trying things and now he has a sports bra with a busted strap. I give up.

[Lance Botelle]

I wasted an entire day watching tutorials and trying things and now he has a sports bra with a busted strap. I give up.

Hi E.E.

I thought that figure with the clothing (three posts up) looked great to me.

The bagginess in the top he wears looked just right.

It's exactly the kind of thing I think will work, so please don't give up. It's really good!

Lance.

[rjshae]

When I get frustrated like that, I find it helpful to set the project aside for a week then come back at it with a fresh perspective. It usually works.

[Eguintir Eligard]

I am taking a pause and throwing out the clothing modifier entirely for the time being.

 

Maybe I'll see what my crocodile project looks like after all this time.

[Eguintir Eligard]

Ok going to need some theory guidance here from a 3d modeller (or even just point me to an active 3ds max help forum, my two apparently went ghost town..)

 

I did most of the UVW pelt map scenes are per below (for the uninitiated, the more uniform the checkers look, the closer it is to a theoretical perfect pelt map. A lot of manual bs

work to do this!)

 

 

 

Now I am doing the pelt seems on the rough base model, as recommended, before NURMS and symmetry.

 

The catch is though, it is obviously, only making a template for my working half of the body. I assume the rest shares the identical UVW cut outs, since there are only one

copy in the template. What happens though when I start doing a high poly and non symmetrical model and try to project it?? It won't work right? What do I do to double the

pelt maps before hand?

[IAmDeathComeForThee]

I havent done much pelt mapping in 3ds, so I'm not sure I understand fully what's going on.  But, you could try these forums here and see if you have any luck: http://www.polycount...isplay.php?f=43

[-Semper-]

Now I am doing the pelt seems on the rough base model, as recommended, before NURMS and symmetry. The catch is though, it is obviously, only making a template for my working half of the body. I assume the rest shares the identical UVW cut outs, since there are only one copy in the template. What happens though when I start doing a high poly and non symmetrical model and try to project it?

 

unwrapping is the last thing you will do with the game-ready mesh. if the model will use a symmetrical uv map it's enough to unwrap just one half of it, use the symmetry modifier and weld the vertices in the center. i dunno what you're doing with nurms at this stage.

anyway, after welding the two halfs there will be two identical uv islands (for each half) exactly overlapping each other. now you have to select one set of uv islands and move them exactly one unit along either the u oder the v axis, positively or negatively doesn't matter. else you will suffer baking errors.

 

@polycount forum: i don't wanna come across as rude but i would not post in that forum before you really know what you're talking about. in majority those are professionals there and they're seldom talkative (besides posting a link to their technical and detailed wiki) in threads where the op "refuses" to do private study to get at least knowledge of the basics.

[Eguintir Eligard]

I had a decent forum that actually noobier questions than I would ask but like I said it's gone. But I think my question is answered, I need to duplicate the UV maps.

 

This should be the last of what I need. once I cage mesh this properly I can star 2d work in gimp. Then I will have a working body in game, and I can just throw the head on (as I understand it, both body and seperate head MDBs attach to the FULL skeleton). I'm not sure I even want a projection mapped head anyway... the one I did looked worse as it darkened and muddied the face as compared to the body.

 

I think I will just do him with his "extruded" basic cloths for now and get this thing going as far as I can before I add any extras like cloth modifiers. I want to do this done in complete before I try to get to cute with it.

 

I do have a follow up question though.

 

I have the stack like this:

 

NURMS

SYMMETRY

UVW unwrap

Editable Poly

 

UVW unwrap is done... how do I duplicate the UVW seams? I thought they would be already since they symmetry modifier is above.

 

Also what do you mean by one unit? 1 unit in the UVW template window?

 

EDIT

Wait I think I see... I collapse the stack and then the UVW is copied. I chose the PACK UVs option... they all look nicely assembled

exactly beside their counterparts now... good to go?

[-Semper-]

that's the point i don't get. you have a high poly mesh (the one with the nurms) which bakes down to your game-ready mesh. the high poly one doesn't need uv maps. the low poly mesh is your in-game model. to get the uv maps you first delete one half of the model, unwrap it, add a symmetrical modifier, collapse the stack to editable poly, weld the center vertices and add another uvw unwrap to move one set of uv islands into an adjacent uv space. the last thing to do is to edit smoothing groups to get a smooth model surface.

 

one unit means that you move the set into another uv space. that's an indefinitely repeating coordinate system. the picture should help to imagine that.

each square space repeats the same texture. that's why you can move the uv set +1 or -1 along an axis without destroying the texture of your model. if you don't this and there are overlapping uv islands you will suffer from baking errors.

 

[Eguintir Eligard]

Oh I see that's pretty big. I thought everything had to be inside the box of the UVW template maker.

 

As far as nurms goes there are several models.

 

There is my base base, which is a lego looking level of detail. Then there is Nurms, (only 1 interation) for my "game base".

 

Then there is a hella detailed 96k polygon that I project onto the Level 1 NURM.

 

But yet the UVW cut outs are based on the lego level of poly. Several tutorials told me keep NURMS un-collapsed and do the UVW mapping on the base lego model

or it will be a night mare. So yes confusing how it all goes together.

[-Semper-]

But yet the UVW cut outs are based on the lego level of poly. Several tutorials told me keep NURMS un-collapsed and do the UVW mapping on the base lego model

or it will be a night mare. So yes confusing how it all goes together.

 

that's wrong. ultimately the game model has to be a mesh without a geometry altering stack - it's only editable polys, (uvw unwrap) and eventually a skin modifier.

[Eguintir Eligard]

But the export converts it all to a single, non stack mesh.

 

If I am supposed to cut a uv map based on the middle (Nurms x1) model then I am at a loss because everyone told me that makes a UV cut difficult since you can lose your base lines during conversion. Sounds like what you said would make more sense but I really don't know myself what the process is then.

 

Your way sounds more right, and is how I initially started out.

[Eguintir Eligard]

Are we really sure on this anyone/everyone? If so I just wasted a large portion of another day so i want to be sure. Might be why my head mesh was so weak as well but I can't tell.

[-Semper-]

If I am supposed to cut a uv map based on the middle (Nurms x1) model then I am at a loss because everyone told me that makes a UV cut difficult since you can lose your base lines during conversion. Sounds like what you said would make more sense but I really don't know myself what the process is then.

 

dunno what you mean with base lines but the process would be as this:

 

- block out a base mesh (guess that's your "lego" model)

(alternatively import that mesh into zbrush or another sculpting app and create your high poly model)

- gradually add edge loops, cuts, and move around polys to create a more refined model (guess you used a nurms modifier to create additional geometry to work with. that's totally wrong and a very bad tutorial if it goes like that. fortunately you can work around this.)

- if the model and texture are symmetrical delete one half of the model and unwrap the remaining half (you have to collaps the nurms stack above your "lego" model to be able to delete one half)

- after unwrapping the half add a symmetry modifier, collapse the stack, weld the center vertices and edit your smoothing groups

- add a uvw unwrap modifier again and move one set of uv islands along either axis into an adjacent uv space

- add a skin modifier and weight the geometry to the bones

 

+ if you're using a sculpting app you can also import the decimated high poly modeler into topogun and retopologize a low poly model which can then be imported into max for unwrapping

[Eguintir Eligard]

Well that sucks that I have to reverse cut it but not the first thing I've started over on here.

This the problem with the Internet it has answers but you have to know the questions and Google isn't great for a detailed question like that.

[-Semper-]

Well that sucks that I have to reverse cut it but not the first thing I've started over on here.

 

 why do you have to reverse cut it? you mentioned that you're already working with a symmetry modifier. for what is it if not for dublicating a model's half?

[Eguintir Eligard]

I have to redo my pelt seems for the collapsed (game detail) model I mean. 

[-Semper-]

 regarding unwrapping and your comment below...

 

A lot of manual bs work to do this!)

 

... for the love of god, please use blender or a decent unwrap plugin to do this stuff. today the whole process is more or less an automatic computing with very little manual touch ups. if you need something to start watch this tutorial for blender. it covers the whole process - afterwards you can export as an obj to retain your uv work.

[Eguintir Eligard]

Please tell me you arent kidding me because Pelt mapping is the worst part and one of the longest in the process.

 

I like low poly modelling, don't mind high poly projecting, and I love animating. The stuff in between is BS.

[Eguintir Eligard]

I notice the mirror modifier leaves a visible fault line down the middle of the character. I know there's gotta be a way to weld that together but he didn't say so. My UVW map looks fantastic this way and no need to duplicate the UVW map

 

 

FOUND IT: <merge limit>

 

For a minute there he had a b-crack that ran his entire back and back down the front.

[Eguintir Eligard]

I have never seen such smooth and even checkers! Very fast. This is almost a non step now.

 

 

EDIT: Completed a projection map for the normal map! Look at this bad boy:

 

Look at all that detail. Shoe lace bumps, clothing creases and wrinkles. Going to be looking sharp in game.

 

 

Questions please:

 

#1 Apparently I have to invert the red channel somehow or NWN2 will do it backwards. What an over sight. Not even completely sure how you

tell if it has been inverted properly in gimp. Anyone? This is what I got from de-checking all channels but red and inverting the colours

 

 

 

#2 Again I want to check, do I apply my MULTI_RES (optimizing modifier) after all the mapping is done? Tutorial says yes but who knows anymore.

 

This porky piglet is sitting at 8k triangles so definitely needs it.

 

#3 Also, are the red overlap seams a concern in this specific instance?

[-Semper-]

seams like you're "wasting" the whole uv space for a symmetrical texture. is it just for testing? because after all this talk about i got the impression that you were going with symmetry in texture.

btw those red pixels indicate that the baking process failed at those spots. check the cage at that areas of your low poly model.