Free marches is THE dump of Thedas. I CANNOT wait to be rid of that place.
/rant
Hmm, I didn't get that impression. I thought Kirkwall was a dump of a major city on Thedas (for several reasons, and only being the 'capital' due to already existing foundations set by Tevinter and its location), but the Free Marches were actually pretty good, especially for being more a bunch of individual city-states.
It is Ferelden that is widely considered to be the dump of Thedas. One may be able to compare Denerim to most Free March cities and the latter ones may actually be better places for most to live in. Even in more recent history and optimism about new royalty, there's been the recovery from the Blight and the disaster of the Breach and proximity to other conflicts too, likely minimizing the region's potential until now.
Ferelden kinda languishes and is fine with it as long as they get to be Ferelden. Don't let the more barren and socially problematic location of Kirkwall, or places like the nearby dry mountains, taint your opinion of the whole place.
The Free Marches may be a more frequently chaotic place to live compared to Ferelden (which sure, did have the bigger events of a Civil War and the recent Blight, but the Marches have more bandits and is less unified), but it has a more well-off population due to better trade and not having been at the bidding of Orlais for so long (Ferelden was more like a colony to extract from). As the breadbasket of Thedas and middle-area between many regions, it appears to be THE place to start up and make a living, with the least larger-scale complications to that. That's not a 'dump'. Ferelden is more the place where one settles in and doesn't leave, even as it relatively sucks to stay, more than any major region in Ferelden. What it does have for it is that sure, it doesn't (technically) have the worst of other regions. It doesn't have the Qun expansion, Tevinter slavery, Antiva assassinations, Rivain spookiness(?), Orlais gaming, etc. But it is overall the poorest place for more people to live.
That said, I found the Free Marches boring as hell and I'd only take a return there if it was Kirkwall in a DLC (not main game) or the rest of the Free Marches as only part of a super larger game, or both. I don't think I'd enjoy a game that focused on it (non-DLC) again.