Under the Misc tab, you'll see that the default fov is set to -1. If you set it to 0 you get a black screen. If you set it to anything higher you get a normal picture at various focal lengths. I believe that ~50 is relative to default fov, so if you set it to 50 when you want to start lining up a shot and use the fov hotkeys from there you won't get an inverted screen. Set it back to -1 when you're done taking screenshots so that your fov will be correct during cutscenes.
(What is happening when you get the inverted screen is the fov dropping below -1.)
You can use the fov box in Misc to manually add the fov you want, if you're more familiar with that sort of thing from Skyrim or whatever. The difference is, as far as I'm aware, it's using vertical fov instead of the standard horizontal fov. That means you'll have to calculate what number you should input here in order to get the desired field of view. This is a calculator that was created for BF2. Someone on the DET forum linked to it in the DAI discussion as a means for calculating what you should put in.
So, for example, a fov of 30-50 is often quite nice for portraits. Let's say you want 50: you would type in your screen res, followed by 50, and calculate. That gives you the value of 30 - which is what you'll want to type into the fov box in DAI Cinematic Tools.
You can keep a little notebook and jot down some of the most common fovs you're likely to want to use, so you don't have to calculate all the time. Or, you can just use the hotkeys. Whatever makes more sense to you. (I change the number to ~50 and then I use the hotkeys from there.)
A note on FOV:
There are lots of reasons you might want to change the fov of a shot. I recommend experimenting on a single scene with something in the foreground and something in the background, and taking the same shot with different fov values so you can see what differences it makes.
One reason might be that you change the fov to a larger number because you want to fit something in frame but you can't move the camera back any further. Likewise, you might change the number down because you want to hide something off-camera but moving closer ruins the shot in some way.
Another reason might be that you want to change the perceived distance between foreground and background objects. The narrower (smaller) the fov the closer together objects will appear. That also means background objects will appear larger. The wider (larger) the fov the farther away background objects will appear, and thus will also appear smaller. This can have a big impact on composition, and can help you achieve a more interesting shot if you know what kind of feeling you want to elicit.
When taking portraits, you can change the shape of someone's face using fov - which can help get across a particular feeling. A lower fov will make someone's face appear wider and shorter; conversely a higher fov will make someone's face appear narrower and longer (this obviously applies to all objects, but in portraits it can be especially important and/or useful).
Be aware, a wide fov will start to distort the image. Objects at the further edges of the picture will start to tilt inwards, so they won't be vertical anymore. Only what is in the middle of your picture will be vertical. This can be used to good effect in some images (I used a very high fov, a low angle, and I also tilted the camera so that the vertical object in the image was the hand on the left, with everything to the right of it appearing to lean over - I think it works here because it enhances the dream-state aspect of The Fade). In others, all you end up doing is creating a picture that looks unbalanced and badly framed. That's not to say that all vertical objects/lines must be perfectly vertical in your shots all of the time. As soon as you start tilting the camera up/down or rolling it clockwise/anti-clockwise your lines will start to shift. It's a good idea to find the object(s) that act as the 'anchor' or main focus of the picture (not always necessarily the people in the picture) and see if that looks well-aligned. If it does, the eye will generally compensate for any other lines that aren't.
With that all in mind, if you're not going for a shot that would definitely benefit from the distortion of a wide fov, try to stick to a lower fov as it will create the least distortion. Better to pull out than to go wide. (It's often said that the best tool a photographer has for focusing and fov isn't a zoom lens but their feet.) Still, there is no rule against using a wide fov, and it can be a lot of fun and produce amazing shots - but more can go wrong with a wide fov than can with a narrow one.
On a side note: I find it very, very useful to take a practice shot and open it up in Windows Explorer at a small-ish size. My eyes can better discern shapes and relationships between them better in a smaller image than they can when the picture is plastered across the whole of my screen. That way I can usually tell if something is 'off' or if it works.
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But the spell timing and angle are great imo.
