Thought this watercolour portrait time-lapse would be useful:
Thought this watercolour portrait time-lapse would be useful:
Graphite (I'm assuming you mean pencils) were personally easier for me to use as a beginner because it's neater and erases more easily, and I tend to keep my drawings clean. For me, charcoal is sometimes too messy, and also difficult to erase. But being able to use charcoal is also a good practice for drawing a line in your drawing correctly the first time, precisely because of its un-erasable-ness (if that's even a word) and its dark, bold shade.
Anyone have any thoughts on charcoal drawing versus graphite?
various articles are telling me charcoal is better for beginners because it's more "forgiving" and hands on (I.e. smudgy). Before I invest in MORE drawing supplies, does anyone have personal experience with the two as a beginner and have thoughts?
There's charcoal, and then there's charcoal... Try porous, willow charcoal sticks for a more forgiving medium. Avoid compact charcoals, as they are not very forgiving if you make a mistake.
Graphite - as Pro said, are pencils. There are many variations there as well, but it's your basic tool as an artist. Go for the good old B2. B's are softer and oilier - and are more difficult to erase, but work well in blending, and can create very dark shadows. HB's are harder, and leave lighter strokes. B2 is appropriate for pretty much everything you want - deep shadows, light areas, and blending.
This is a pretty good website for learning the basics/techniques for digital painting if anyone is interested! ![]()
@ Tesh and @ procutemeister
Thanks for the tips! I've been working with graphite pencils and playing with all the different softnesses, 2B definitely being my fav, but maybe I'll look into a small charcoal kit...instead of like a 20 piece one. And just get messy. Sometimes...you just gotta be messy... ![]()
Thanks!!
How about Conté? They're charcoal stick but in pencil form & less messy for hands?
EDIT: if you want a forgiving media probably forget markers & pens. They are VERY unforgiving ![]()
I have a friend who can draw with only markers and pens, without pencil... she draws really fast too. Watching her draw is like
!!
There are also charcoal pencils that come in shades of grey and also white, they're very good for shading. They come in kits and sets too, you could look out for those ![]()
How about Conté? They're charcoal stick but in pencil form & less messy for hands?
EDIT: if you want a forgiving media probably forget markers & pens. They are VERY unforgiving
I was JUST going to ask about Conte crayons! A couple of my friends swear by them, but how do you erase?? Maker knows I erase like a mo-fo
.... I might buy them online but then I hear I need massive pieces of paper to work with
supposedly, graphite for little sketch books, charcoal for bigger ones, and conte...just a whole desk sized sheet ![]()
Conté à Paris is a trademark, so which one are you talking about? I have the charcoal pencil (charcoal but in form of pencil, very thick pencil) HB, B and 2B. They are... like charcoal, quite easy to erase with kneaded rubber, but still it's harder to erase vs graphite from my trials. Much more forgiving then pens...
My BFF who does wonder with charcoals & conté work on A3 format, and Raisin format for figure drawings. She sometimes use charcoals for A4 too however.
@Qween You're right actually, textured paper works better for pencils and crayons. The smooth paper is for markers, pens, stuff like that.
Ah? TBH I like smooth paper for pencil XD
Excellent video on the importance of lineart by CubeBrush:
I have a general question about learning to draw, any insight & opinions are appreciated ![]()
I talked to a guy who's professional animator last week end. He gave me an advice about drawing (people and animal and anything really) to start drawing gestures from life (park, café, trains, wherever, or even tree, but from real life), even before starting anatomy and keep doing this in parallel while learning the "details" and anatomy and shading. He insisted that gesture is much more difficult to acquise than correct "details" and I should start now instead of waiting to learn anatomy like I planned to do intially. I'm still currently learning to draw heads. I asked several artists whose style I really like and they all say the same thing. TBH every single drawings & painting I love (and would love to do) involve movement, a kind of dynamic. Even in portraits it's always as if the person is going to do something next.
Is it really a good idea to start something like this instead of focusing on one thing at a time?
Ceru, you cannot really separate poses from anatomy. The two of them are taught together
While you are in the park, or wherever you can take your sketchbook, you can quickly draw the people and animals around you. The important thing is to capture the main line of the body - the gesture. Anatomy is unimportant. And when you have time to sit down and study muscles, then you do that.
I don't want to keep harping on my short stint at an art college, but there we were supposed to sketch during every spare minute we had - on the subway, the streetcar, while having lunch. Meanwhile, in class we were taught how to construct the human body.
So, yes, what those professionals have told you is right - you do not need to learn anatomy before attempting to render movement. The two should be practiced in parallel ![]()
Ayyy, to work then ![]()
You know something Tesh? I'll never be able to go to art school so I suck every single info I can get. Please don't hesitate to share whatever story it is. You'll always have that 6 months more (or a year, or any length it is) there than I'll ever have. ![]()
OHMYGOSH
I just got my first issue of ImagineFX, and it is AWESOME
It has a LOT of resources (like brushes, WIPs, and really long and detailed process videos), and the images in the printed magazine can serve as a great source of inspiration.
What I particularly enjoyed was a step-by-step guide on traditional inking by Andy Brase. Unfortunately, I cannot upload the images, but I can answer questions on the technique the artist uses.
The egg method?
I am not sure... I was taught the Loomis way.
Proko has a simplified summary of Loomis. Maybe this might help? Make sure to check out all of his videos, as they are very well done.
It's crazy to say that actually Proko explain more than loomis on his books XD
I tried the egg method, it's OK for front view but sadly inadequate for side view & three-quartered ![]()
IMO go for Loomis', it's a solid thing. That might be daunting at first but it's easier later for the shading ![]()