A mixture of both. Orlesian culture often seems like sheer snobbery. But while I don't really like the nobles, a lot of the middle and lower class Orlesians were quite charming. The nerds of the various Universities in particular. 
The Orlesian Empire itself is an empire that's going through a more mundane version of what happened to Tevinter. It's an empire that's enslaved Fereldans, destroyed the only elven state, split Nevarra with Tevinter after saving the world from a Blight, conquered the Anderfels and half the Free Marches, sent armies on Exalted March after Exalted March, and oppresses its elves and humans enough that a revolution doesn't seem like a far-fetched bet.
While I find Tevinter more fascinating, Roman afficionado that I am, Orlais is an interesting empire. I just have a personal dislike for most French accents that makes it harder to swallow. 